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FritzCustomEpoxy Tutorials: Learn to Mix, Pour & Finish Epoxy Resin

Most failed epoxy projects come down to a handful of avoidable mistakes. These FritzCustomEpoxy tutorials walk through each stage of a pour, from measuring the first cup to buffing the final coat.

FritzCustomEpoxy tutorial: pouring epoxy resin into a mold

FritzCustomEpoxy Tutorial 1: Measuring and Mixing Epoxy Correctly

Epoxy is a chemical reaction, not a paint. Resin (part A) and hardener (part B) must be combined at the exact ratio printed on the label, usually 1:1 or 2:1 by volume. Guessing the ratio is the number one cause of sticky, soft or cloudy cures.

  1. Work in a room between 70–80°F (21–27°C) with the resin and hardener at the same temperature.
  2. Use graduated mixing cups and measure each part separately before combining.
  3. Stir slowly for 3–5 minutes, scraping the sides and bottom of the cup with a flat stick.
  4. For larger batches, pour into a second clean cup and mix again (the "double cup" method) to catch unmixed resin clinging to the first cup.
  5. Pour soon after mixing. Epoxy left in the cup heats up and shortens your working time.
Tip: never add extra hardener to "speed up" a cure. Off-ratio epoxy will not cure properly no matter how long you wait.

FritzCustomEpoxy Tutorial 2: Getting a Bubble-Free Finish

Bubbles come from three places: air whipped in during mixing, air escaping from porous wood or concrete, and air trapped in molds. Tackle each one separately.

  • Mix slowly. Fold the resin instead of whipping it.
  • Seal porous surfaces first. Brush a thin seal coat onto wood and let it tack up before the main pour so the grain stops releasing air.
  • Warm the resin. Setting sealed bottles in warm water for 10 minutes lowers viscosity and lets bubbles rise.
  • Use a heat gun or torch carefully. Pass it quickly over the surface a few minutes after pouring. Don't hold it in one place or you can scorch the resin.
  • Pour thin on molds. A thin first layer brushed into mold details stops air getting trapped in corners.

FritzCustomEpoxy Tutorial 3: Pouring a River Table Step by Step

A river table combines two live-edge slabs with a resin channel between them. The key difference from a coaster or tray is depth: river tables need a slow-curing deep-pour epoxy that can go down thick without overheating.

  1. Dry and flatten the slabs. Wood should be kiln- or air-dried to a stable moisture content. Flatten both faces with a router sled.
  2. Remove loose bark and debris. Anything loose will float into the resin.
  3. Build a sealed form. Melamine board lined with sheathing tape or a reusable HDPE mold, with every seam caulked. Leaks are the most common river-table disaster.
  4. Seal the live edges with a thin coat of epoxy and let it tack.
  5. Clamp the slabs down. Wood floats in liquid resin; screw or clamp it so it can't lift.
  6. Pour within the product's maximum depth. If the river is deeper than the label allows, pour in several layers and wait the recommended time between them.
  7. Let it cure fully, often 3–7 days for deep-pour resins, before demolding, flattening and sanding.

FritzCustomEpoxy Tutorial 4: Flood Coating Countertops and Bar Tops

A flood coat is a thin (about 1/8 inch) layer of table-top epoxy that self-levels across a surface. It's how bar tops and countertops get that deep, glassy look.

  • Clean, sand and degrease the surface. Laminate and old finishes need scuff sanding so the epoxy can grip.
  • Mask the underside edges with tape so drips are easy to remove.
  • Apply a seal coat first on wood to prevent bubbles.
  • Pour in a ribbon down the middle and spread with a notched trowel or plastic spreader, letting it run over the edges.
  • Use a foam brush to smooth the vertical edges, then pass a heat gun across to pop bubbles.
  • Cover with a dust tent and keep the room warm for at least 24 hours.

FritzCustomEpoxy Tutorial 5: Sanding and Polishing to a Glass Finish

After a full cure, cured epoxy can be sanded and polished just like a car's clear coat.

StageGritPurpose
Flattening80–120Remove high spots and drips after demolding
Refining180–400Remove the scratches from the previous grit
Wet sanding600–3000Bring back clarity in the resin
PolishingCompound + polishRestore a mirror-like shine

Don't skip grits. Each grit only removes the scratches from the grit before it. If you'd rather not polish, a thin final flood coat or a hard-wax oil gives a smooth finish with less effort.

Have a question about care or materials? See the FritzCustomEpoxy FAQ and care guide, or learn how to turn your skills into income.